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Marrakech moon over mosque and bazaar shines on the Jamaa el Fna square, the throbbing heart of the Old City, traditional gathering place, since before the Romans were in North Africa, for caravans crossing the Sahara to sell gold or salt, or to stock up for the journey.   Still today, and everyday, travelers and locals come by the thousands to see musicians and dancers, fortune tellers, story tellers, acrobats, snake charmers, trained Atlas apes, and every afternoon scores of food vendors set up to prepare and serve classic Moroccan dishes